Car air con not working? 7 causes and what you can check yourself
Is your car’s air con blowing warm air, or is no air coming out of the vents at all? Here you can read the seven causes we see most often in our workshop, what you can safely check yourself and roughly what a repair costs.
By the team at Autobedrijf Willemsbrug, RDW-approved APK (MOT) test station since 1979 · Updated 4 November 2026
Our score is 4.8 / 5 from 235 reviews. Read what our customers say
The short answer
A car air con that blows warm air usually has too little refrigerant, through slow loss over the years or through a leak. Other causes are a faulty compressor, a dirty or leaking condenser, a faulty magnetic clutch, a faulty blower fan and an electrical fault such as a fuse. Which cause it is only becomes clear from measuring the pressures and reading the fault codes. At Autobedrijf Willemsbrug in Rotterdam you hear in advance what the diagnosis costs and we only carry out repairs once you have agreed.
First things first: is it really the air con?
Not every air con that blows warm air is faulty. Sometimes the cause is in the controls or the ventilation. So check these four points first. It will take you a few minutes.
Have you checked these points and is the air still warm? Then it is probably one of the seven causes below.
The seven causes we see most often
The most common cause is too little refrigerant. The refrigerant is the gas that circulates in a closed circuit and carries the heat out of the car. A fault can have more than one cause. The descriptions below give a first indication. They do not replace a measurement.
1. Too little refrigerant through slow loss
An air con system is sealed. Even so, refrigerant slowly escapes through the hoses and seals. According to the ANWB, the Dutch motoring organisation, refrigerant needs topping up every 4 to 6 years on average. First the air becomes less cold. If there is far too little refrigerant, the pressure sensor switches the compressor off to protect it. The air con then blows warm air.
Solution: an air con service. We extract the refrigerant, vacuum the system, check that it is sealed and refill it to the factory specification. Read more about an air con regas.
2. A leak in the system
Does the air con blow warm again within a few months of being refilled? Then there is probably a leak. Common leak points are the O-rings at the connections, the condenser, the hoses and the service valves. The European directive on car air con systems (2006/40/EC) states that a garage must not refill a system that has lost an abnormal amount of refrigerant until the repair has been completed. So we do not refill a system that we know is leaking.
Solution: a leak test with nitrogen, followed by repairing the leak.
3. A faulty air con compressor
The compressor pumps the refrigerant around and pressurises it. Without a working compressor the air con does not cool. A worn compressor often makes a ticking or rattling noise when you switch the air con on. Sometimes it no longer engages at all. A noise alone is not a diagnosis: squealing, for example, more often comes from the auxiliary drive belt or a tensioner pulley.
Solution: replacing the compressor. This is one of the most expensive air con repairs. That is why we first measure whether the compressor really is the cause. You can read more on our page about replacing the air con compressor.
4. A dirty or leaking condenser
The condenser sits at the front of the car, usually behind the grille and in front of the radiator. It releases the heat from the refrigerant into the outside air. If it is clogged with leaves and insects, or damaged by stone chips, it does this less well. The air con then cools poorly, especially when the car is stationary and in traffic jams. A faulty cooling fan causes the same complaint.
Solution: cleaning the fins or, if there is a leak or damage, replacing the condenser. We also check the cooling fan. Read more about replacing the air con condenser.
5. A faulty magnetic clutch
On many belt-driven compressors, a magnetic clutch switches the compressor on and off. If the clutch does not work, the compressor does not turn, even if the rest of the system is in order. You then often hear no click when you switch the air con on. That alone does not prove the clutch is faulty. Many newer compressors and electric compressors have no magnetic clutch. Then you will not hear a click either.
Solution: on many compressors the clutch can be replaced separately. On others the whole compressor is replaced.
6. A faulty blower fan or blower control
The blower fan is the fan behind the dashboard that blows air through the vents. If it is faulty, little or no air comes out of the vents, even on the highest setting. Sometimes the blower motor hums or squeaks. Does the blower only work on the highest setting? Then the blower resistor is often faulty. On an automatic climate control system, this part is called the blower control module. A clogged cabin filter also lets little air through.
Solution: checking the filter and replacing the blower fan or the control module. How much work that is varies a lot between models.
7. An electrical fault or a blown fuse
Sometimes the cause is a fuse, a relay, a pressure sensor, the wiring or the controls. According to the ANWB, broken wiring or a blown fuse is a repair that is not expensive. On newer cars, the car usually stores a fault code when something goes wrong. A fault code is a pointer and not necessarily the cause. That is why we carry on measuring after reading it.
Solution: reading the fault codes, measuring and repairing the faulty part.
Air con not cooling, or not cooling well: which symptom points to which cause?
What you notice often says a lot about the cause. Use the table as a first indication. It is not a diagnosis.
| What you notice | Likely cause | First step |
|---|---|---|
| Lukewarm air, the air con does engage | Too little refrigerant or a leak | An air con service, or first a leak test if the air con has been refilled before |
| Cold while driving, warm when stationary | A dirty condenser or a faulty cooling fan | Have the condenser and the fan checked |
| Ticking or rattling when the air con comes on | The compressor, the auxiliary drive belt or a bearing | Switch the air con off and have it checked |
| Hissing under the bonnet and less and less cooling | Possibly a leak | A leak test |
| No click and no cooling | Far too little refrigerant, the magnetic clutch, a fuse, a relay or the pressure sensor | A diagnosis with a measurement |
| Little or no air from the vents | The blower fan, the blower control or a clogged cabin filter | Check the cabin filter and have the blower fan tested |
| The air con works some of the time | A sensor, a relay, the wiring or too little refrigerant | Have the fault codes read |
| Warm again shortly after a refill | A leak | A leak test. Refilling only helps for a short time |
| Cold on the left and warm on the right (dual-zone climate control) | Too little refrigerant or the actuator of a blend flap | A diagnosis with a measurement |
| Less and less air after driving for a while | A frozen evaporator due to a control problem or too little refrigerant | Have the pressures measured |
First indication based on the complaint. The cause only becomes clear from a measurement.
What does it cost when the air con stops working?
The cost depends on the cause. An air con service is a small expense, a new compressor or evaporator a large one. That is why the diagnosis is the first step. You hear in advance what the diagnosis costs. After that you receive a quote listing the parts, the labour, the refrigerant and the VAT. We only carry out repairs once you have agreed.
| Cause | Solution | Cost indication |
|---|---|---|
| Too little refrigerant | Air con service | With us from € 120 (R134a) or from € 180 (R1234yf) |
| Leak | Leak test and repair of the leak | You hear in advance what the leak test costs |
| Compressor | Replace the compressor and flush the system | According to the ANWB this can run up to € 1,000 |
| Evaporator | Replace the evaporator, the dashboard has to come out | According to the ANWB around € 1,500 |
| Condenser or cooling fan | Clean or replace | You receive a quote in advance |
| Magnetic clutch | Replace the clutch or the compressor | You receive a quote in advance |
| Blower fan or blower control | Replace the blower fan or the control module | You receive a quote in advance |
| Fuse or wiring | Diagnosis and repair | According to the ANWB not expensive |
Amounts marked “according to the ANWB” are market indications from the ANWB and not a quote from us. Our air con service includes extracting the refrigerant, vacuuming, the leak-tightness check, refilling to the factory specification and VAT.
Have you already had a quote elsewhere, for example for a new compressor, and would you like to be sure first that it is needed? Then you can have a second opinion with us. It costs € 145, including up to one hour of investigation.
What can you safely check yourself?
You can do four checks yourself, without tools. They help you tell us more clearly on the phone what you have noticed. Repairs and refills belong at the garage.
- Listen when you switch the air con on. Do this outdoors. Put the car in P or in neutral, with the handbrake on. Leave the engine running and switch the air con on. Listen for a click, ticking or rattling. Keep your hands, clothing and hair away from belts and fans.
- Look at the condenser. Look through the grille at the visible part. Are there a lot of leaves, dirt or insects in front of it? Then have the condenser cleaned. Do not use a pressure washer at close range, because the fins bend easily.
- Feel how cold the air gets. Set the air con to the coldest setting and leave it on for a few minutes. If the air hardly gets colder than the outside air, a measurement is needed.
- Check the cabin filter. A clogged filter lets little air through. The owner’s manual shows where the filter is and when it needs replacing. On many cars it sits behind the glovebox. Is the filter hard to reach? Then let us check it for you.
Better not to do yourself: refilling with a DIY recharge kit from a shop. According to the ANWB, refilling it yourself is not permitted and must be done by a certified company, because the system is under pressure. With a recharge kit you also do not know how much refrigerant is still in the system, and a leak stays where it is. Too much refrigerant is bad for the compressor. Some kits contain a leak sealant that can contaminate the system and the workshop equipment.
When is a diagnosis in the workshop needed?
A diagnosis is needed as soon as the air con still does not cool after the checks above, or if you recognise one of the signs below. Finding the cause reliably requires measuring equipment: an air con service station that measures the pressures and diagnostic equipment that reads the fault codes.
Do you drive an electric car or a plug-in hybrid? On many electric cars and plug-in hybrids, the air con system also cools the battery. If the air con is not working properly, the car may limit rapid charging or power to protect the battery. So do not wait too long. Read more about the air con in an electric car. Our mechanics hold the GMTO certificate (the Dutch qualification for working on high-voltage systems) for work on hybrid and electric cars.
How we find the cause at Autobedrijf Willemsbrug
We work in a set order: measure first, and only then refill or replace. That way we reduce the chance of a part being replaced unnecessarily. Our mechanics are F-gas certified for car air con systems with R134a and R1234yf.
- Call us with your registration number. Tell us what you have noticed. Has the air con been refilled before? Please mention it. Then we start with the leak test and not with refilling. You hear in advance what the diagnosis costs.
- Measuring the pressures and reading the fault codes. We connect the air con service station and measure the high and low pressure. These pressures show whether there is too little refrigerant, whether the compressor pumps properly and whether the condenser can get rid of its heat. We read the fault codes with the diagnostic equipment.
- A leak test if we suspect a leak. We extract the refrigerant and pressurise the system with dry nitrogen. If the pressure drops, we look for the location of the leak.
- Quote and your approval. We tell you what we have found and you receive a quote for the repair in advance. We only start once you have agreed. If more work turns out to be needed along the way, we discuss it with you first.
A complete air con service takes about 45 minutes to an hour and you can wait for it. A leak test or a larger repair takes longer and depends on the car and the delivery time of the parts. We work by appointment, Monday to Friday from 8.00 to 17.30 and on Saturday from 9.00 to 15.00. For a quick question or check you can walk in without an appointment. You can read all about the air con service and our prices on the page car air conditioning.
How often does the air con need refilling?
According to the ANWB, refrigerant needs topping up every 4 to 6 years on average. So refilling every year is not necessary. According to the ANWB, it is sensible to have the air con checked every year, for example during the service. Check your car’s service schedule too. How to read it is explained in your car’s service schedule explained.
Do not wait for the average if the air con starts cooling less well sooner. In that case there is already too little refrigerant. If the air con is empty again within a year of being refilled, there is more going on than normal loss and we look for the leak first.
How do you stop the air con from failing?
The best protection is to use the air con regularly all year round and have it checked in good time. The refrigerant carries oil that lubricates the compressor. According to the ANWB, switching the air con on now and then helps prevent damage. If the air con is off for a long time, refrigerant slowly leaks away, according to the ANWB.