Wheel alignment after new tyres: when you need it and when you do not
When you buy new tyres, you are often asked whether you want the wheels aligned as well. Sometimes that is wise. Often it is not needed. This article explains what wheel alignment is, when it does solve something, what it costs according to the ANWB and how to tell for yourself whether your car needs it. That way you do not pay for something that changes nothing.
By the team at Autobedrijf Willemsbrug, RDW-approved APK (MOT) test station since 1979 · Updated 7 November 2026
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The short answer
No, wheel alignment is not needed as standard after new tyres. New tyres do not change the position of the wheels. According to the ANWB, the Dutch motoring organisation, alignment is not part of the manufacturer’s service schedule and there is no fixed interval. Have the alignment measured if your car pulls to one side, the steering wheel is off-centre when driving straight, the old tyres were worn on one side, or after a hard knock against a kerb or a deep pothole. Replacing steering or suspension parts can also change the position of the wheels. If the manufacturer asks for an alignment after that work, it is included in the quote. A standard alignment usually costs € 70 to € 120 according to the ANWB (consulted November 2026) and takes 30 to 60 minutes. We tell you your price in advance, based on your registration number (kenteken).
Do you need wheel alignment after new tyres?
No, not as standard. Wheel alignment is about the position of the wheels in relation to each other and to the car. That position sits in the suspension and the steering, not in the tyre. A new tyre changes nothing there. If the car was properly aligned before the tyre change, it still is afterwards. The ANWB writes that alignment is not part of your car’s preventive service schedule and gives no fixed interval. Have the wheel angles checked if you are in doubt, and in any case when you notice the signs listed below.
There is one good reason to think about alignment when you buy new tyres: the old tyres. If they are worn on one side, the car was probably not properly aligned and the new tyres can wear in the same way. Then alignment is not an extra, but the solution to the problem that wore out the old tyres. That is why our mechanic looks at the wear pattern of the old tyres first at every tyre change, and only then at whether alignment makes sense.
What is wheel alignment?
Wheel alignment is measuring and setting the angles at which the wheels sit under the car, to the values the manufacturer specifies. The mechanic fits measuring heads to all four wheels, reads the deviation on a screen and adjusts the suspension and the track rods. According to the ANWB, an alignment looks at the toe, the camber and the caster. In plain language:
| Angle | What it is | What you notice when it is out |
|---|---|---|
| Toe (spoor or sporing in Dutch) | Whether the wheels, seen from above, point slightly towards each other or away from each other. This is adjusted most often. | Saw-tooth wear on the tread, the tyre wears fast, the car feels nervous or heavy |
| Camber (wielvlucht) | Whether the wheel, seen from the front, stands upright or tilts inwards or outwards at the top. | Wear on the inner or outer edge of the tyre, the car pulls to one side |
| Caster (naloop) | The tilt of the steering axis, seen from the side. Makes the steering wheel return to centre by itself after a bend. | The steering wheel returns poorly after a bend, the car pulls, heavy or light steering |
The three wheel angles measured during an alignment. Which angles are adjustable differs per car. More explanation is in toe, camber and caster explained.
A proper alignment measures all four wheels, not only the front wheels, and adjusts what is adjustable. If the rear wheels are out, you can notice it as a steering wheel that is not straight when driving straight ahead. According to the ANWB, the effect of a good alignment is that the tyres wear more slowly and the car uses less fuel. The car also steers better, especially in bends.
When is wheel alignment needed?
Wheel alignment is needed when the wheel position has changed or when you notice it is wrong. The ANWB and manufacturers list these situations, and they match what we see in the workshop:
The wear pattern of the tyre is the best clue. According to tyre manufacturer Michelin, wear on one side of the tread points to an alignment problem and saw-tooth wear to a toe setting that is out. Wear in the centre or on both shoulders, on the other hand, is caused by the wrong tyre pressure, and alignment does nothing about that. A wavy pattern (cupping) points to imbalance or worn shock absorbers. All the patterns are in uneven tyre wear: causes and solutions.
What is the difference between alignment and balancing?
Balancing is about the wheel itself, alignment is about the position of the wheel under the car. When balancing, the mechanic spins each wheel on a balancing machine and sticks or clips small weights on the rim, so that the wheel does not vibrate at speed. That is part of every new tyre fitting, and with us it is included in the price. Alignment is a separate job on an alignment lift and is not a standard part of new tyres.
| Balancing | Alignment | |
|---|---|---|
| What is done | Weights on the rim to correct imbalance in wheel and tyre | Wheel angles set to the manufacturer’s data |
| When | At every tyre fitting, after a lost weight | Only for a reason: pulling, off-centre steering wheel, uneven wear, a knock, replaced parts |
| Complaint it solves | Vibrating steering wheel or vibrating car, usually between 80 and 120 km/h | Car pulls, steering wheel off-centre, tyre wears on one side |
| Included in the price of new tyres? | Yes, with us at every fitting | No, we tell you the cost in advance if it is needed |
The difference between balancing and alignment.
So if the steering wheel vibrates after new tyres, the cause is rarely the alignment. Think of balancing first, a tyre that is not seated properly on the rim or a lost weight. Read more in steering wheel vibration: find and fix the cause and in wheel balancing: what it is and when it is needed.
What does wheel alignment cost and how long does it take?
According to the ANWB (consulted November 2026), prices for a standard alignment are generally between € 70 and € 120 including labour, and it takes 30 to 60 minutes on average. The amount differs per car and per garage. On some cars more angles are adjustable and it takes more time. On other cars only the front toe is adjustable and it is quicker.
If we advise an alignment, we tell you what it costs with us in advance, and why. If the manufacturer asks for an alignment after a suspension repair, it is in the same quote. If the measurement shows that all the values are within the factory tolerances, we tell you that too.
How does wheel alignment work at Autobedrijf Willemsbrug?
We align with our own alignment equipment, on all four wheels and to the manufacturer’s data. The mechanic first checks the tyre pressure and whether there is play in steering or suspension parts, because aligning a car with a worn ball joint is pointless. Then the mechanic measures the position of all the wheels, adjusts what is adjustable and measures again. We tell you what we measured and what we adjusted. Everything about this service, including for electric cars, vans and motorhomes up to 3,500 kg, is on wheel alignment in Rotterdam.
If you are not sure whether your car needs it, call +31 10 479 00 00 and describe what you notice. Often we can tell you on the phone whether it sounds like alignment, balancing or something else. If there is space, an appointment is often possible at short notice. If you buy new tyres from us, the mechanic assesses the wear pattern of the old tyres and tells you whether alignment makes sense. More about our tyre service is on tyre replacement in Rotterdam.
How do you make sure new tyres wear evenly?
Most uneven wear is not caused by the alignment but by the tyre pressure. Pressure that is too low wears both shoulders, pressure that is too high wears the centre. The ANWB advises checking the pressure every month, on cold tyres, that is, before you have driven that day or after no more than 5 kilometres. The right value is in the owner’s manual and on a sticker in the door pillar or behind the fuel flap. This also helps:
- Check the tyre pressure monthly and before a long trip with luggage. According to the ANWB (consulted November 2026), pressure that is too low causes irregular wear, a longer braking distance and up to € 100 a year in extra fuel.
- Take kerbs and speed bumps gently, preferably straight on. A hard knock at an angle against a kerb can bend a track rod or damage the carcass of the tyre.
- Have the tyres swapped from front to rear if the manufacturer allows it. At a service or a tyre change we check whether swapping makes sense, and if so we do it straight away.
- Look at the wear pattern at every seasonal change. If the alignment is the cause, a pattern that is only starting can still be stopped before the tyre is worn out.
- Have the wheel position checked after a kerb or a deep pothole, even if the car does not noticeably pull. A deviation in the toe makes a tyre wear faster and unevenly.