Tyre noise: causes of humming, droning and thumping
A humming, droning or thumping noise from the corner of a wheel is a common complaint. Sometimes it is the tyre itself, sometimes the road surface, and sometimes the problem sits behind the tyre: a wheel bearing, a shock absorber or the alignment. This article explains how to tell the noises apart, what the cause can be and when it is better not to drive on.
By the team at Autobedrijf Willemsbrug, RDW-approved APK (MOT) test station since 1979 · Updated 8 November 2026
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The short answer
Tyre noise has five common causes: the tread pattern of the tyre (coarse winter and all-season treads hum more), uneven wear such as a saw-tooth pattern, low tyre pressure, imbalance or a bulge in the tyre, and a worn wheel bearing. A droning noise that gets louder at higher speed and changes in corners often points to a wheel bearing, according to the ANWB, the Dutch motoring organisation. A rhythmic thumping that keeps pace with the wheel speed usually comes from the tyre itself. With a bulge in the tyre, or a thumping noise after hitting a kerb, do not drive on.
Which noise do you hear: humming, droning, thumping or clicking?
The type of noise and the moment it changes tell you the most. That is why the first thing we ask at the desk is: when do you hear it, at what speed, and does it change in a corner or under braking? The table below will get you a long way.
| Noise | When | Most likely cause |
|---|---|---|
| Even humming that rises with speed | On every road surface, especially on smooth tarmac | Tread pattern of the tyre (coarse winter or all-season tread), or uneven wear |
| Humming that differs strongly per road surface | Especially on cobbles, concrete slabs or old tarmac | The road surface, not the tyre. No action needed |
| Droning or whining that gets louder at higher speed and changes in corners | From about 50 km/h, louder in one corner, quieter in the other | Wheel bearing (ANWB: a droning or humming noise that gets louder as you drive faster) |
| Rhythmic thumping or wobbling that keeps pace with the wheel speed | Also at low speed, felt in the steering wheel or the seat | Bulge in the tyre, flat spot after an emergency stop, or cupping |
| Vibration in the steering wheel without a clear noise | At motorway speed | Wheel out of balance |
| Ticking or clicking that keeps pace with speed | Especially at low speed | Stone or screw in the tread, loose wheel trim or a loose wheel bolt |
Sources: ANWB, Wiellager. Michelin, Tire inspector tool. Supplemented with what our mechanics hear on a test drive.
Cause 1: the tread pattern and the type of tyre
Every tyre makes noise. With every rotation the tread blocks hit the road surface and air is squeezed out of the grooves. The coarser and more open the tread, the more you hear it. Winter tyres and all-season tyres with many sipes therefore often hum louder than a summer tyre with a closed tread. A wider tyre usually makes more noise than a narrow one too.
The EU tyre label gives the rolling noise of a tyre in decibels, with a class A to C. According to the ANWB this is the noise outside the car, not what you hear inside. It is still a good first indication: two tyres of the same size can differ by a few decibels. How to read the label is explained in EU tyre label explained. In the winter tyre test of 2025 the ANWB named the Continental WinterContact TS 870 P the quietest tyre of the test.
A new set of tyres can sound different from the old set for the first few hundred kilometres. That is normal. If the noise gets worse after a few weeks instead, something else is going on.
Cause 2: uneven wear and saw-tooth patterns
A tyre that wears unevenly starts to hum or thump. The best-known pattern is cupping, also called scalloping: the tread blocks wear alternately higher and lower, in a wave pattern around the tyre. Michelin writes that cupping points to a problem with balance or suspension, often worn shock absorbers, and that the uneven surface itself causes vibration and noise. You can feel it with your hand if you run it over the tread.
| Wear pattern | Cause according to Michelin | What you hear |
|---|---|---|
| Wave pattern around the tyre (cupping) | Balance or suspension, often shock absorbers | Humming or wobbling that rises with speed |
| Saw-tooth across the blocks: sharp edge on one side, rounded on the other (feathering) | Toe setting of the alignment | Humming, often strongest at one speed |
| One edge worn | Alignment (camber) | Usually little noise, but faster wear |
| Both outer edges worn | Tyre pressure too low | Duller rolling noise, poorer steering |
| Centre worn | Tyre pressure too high | Harder, sharper noise |
Source: Michelin, Tire inspector tool, consulted 6 November 2026.
The wear pattern cannot be reversed. We remove the cause, for example by replacing shock absorbers or aligning the car, and then assess whether the tyre still has enough tread to run down. Sometimes the noise only disappears with new tyres. All the causes and solutions are in uneven tyre wear: causes and solutions.
Causes 3 and 4: tyre pressure and imbalance
A tyre that is too soft makes a duller rolling noise and wears on both shoulders. So with every new noise, check the tyre pressure first. The value is in the owner’s manual and on the sticker in the door pillar. The ANWB advises checking every month, on cold tyres.
Imbalance usually gives no noise, but a vibration in the steering wheel at motorway speed. At every fitting we balance the wheel with small weights on the rim. If a wheel loses a weight, for example in a car wash or on a kerb, the vibration comes back. A bulge in the tyre or a flat spot after an emergency stop does make a noise: a rhythmic thumping that keeps pace with the wheel speed and can be heard at low speed. Read more about wheel balancing.
Cause 5: a worn wheel bearing
A wheel bearing lets the wheel turn smoothly on the axle. According to the ANWB, a worn wheel bearing makes a droning or humming noise that gets louder as you drive faster, sometimes together with vibration in the steering wheel or an ABS warning light. A worn bearing often gets louder in one direction and quieter in the other, while tyre noise usually changes much less in corners. Do not wait until the noise gets worse. We look for the cause of the noise and tell you in advance what replacing the bearing costs. Whether you can keep driving, how to recognise the noise and what the ANWB says a replacement costs: read our page about wheel bearing noise (in Dutch).
Why is tyre noise so noticeable in an electric car?
Because the motor is silent. Michelin writes that in an electric car the tyres, not the motor, are the main source of noise. Noise that disappears under the engine noise in a petrol car is clearly audible in an electric car. On top of that, an electric car is heavier and delivers its torque instantly, so according to Michelin tyres wear up to 20% faster and uneven wear develops sooner.
Tyre manufacturers therefore make tyres with a foam layer on the inside that dampens the noise inside the tyre. Continental quotes a reduction in interior noise of up to 9 dB for ContiSilent, Michelin about 20% less interior noise for its Acoustic Technology. These tyres are not compulsory, but the difference is clearly audible in an electric car. All the points to watch are in tyres for an electric car.
When should you take tyre noise to the garage?
Straight away with a bulge in the tyre, a thumping noise after hitting a kerb, or a noise that comes together with a vibration or a warning light. With a humming noise that gets worse over a few weeks, make an appointment for a test drive and a check on the lift. A noise that only occurs on a certain road surface and disappears on smooth tarmac is usually the road surface.
With us it starts with a test drive and a look on the lift. We feel the tread, measure the tread depth in several places, check the tyre pressure and turn each wheel by hand. That way we know whether the noise comes from the tyre, the bearing or the suspension before we replace anything. If the tyre is the cause, we tell you one price in advance based on your registration number (kenteken). That price includes the tyres, fitting, balancing and disposal of the old tyres. We only recommend alignment when there is a reason for it, such as a car that pulls or a wear pattern that points to the alignment, not as standard. Everything about our tyre service is on tyre replacement and seasonal changes in Rotterdam.
Read more
Frequently asked questions
Sources
- ANWB: Wiellager: symptoms, noise and costs
- Michelin: Tire inspector tool: wear patterns, cupping and noise
- ANWB: Bandenlabel: rolling noise in dB and class A to C
- Michelin: The new demands of EV cars on tyres (13 September 2023)
- Continental: Tyres for electric cars: ContiSilent up to 9 dB
- ANWB: Winter tyre test 2025: most economical and quietest tyre (22 September 2025)